Black Tatted Choker with Red Beads - Finished

I did decide that it needed something.  I had this necklace that I have never worn (don't remember where it came from).  I think it is just the thing.  I cannibalized the chain for the closure.  This will fit a 14" and up neck.

If you like this, click on my Artfire shop at the top.

Tatted Choker with beading

My latest project is almost finished.  This one gave me the figits.  The first problem was the black cotton.  It is what is, in my opinion sarcastically, called "Lively" yarn.  In other words, it twists all to blazes.  Not too bad if you are working with, say, a sport weight yarn and knitting or crocheting it.  When it is a size 10 cotton string you are trying to tat.  Yikes!

Second problem is that I haven't tatted with beads before, so, I was working on the assumption that stringing the beads on the ball and using that to create the chains.  This is what you do when you are crocheting with beads.  Not so easy, at least for me.  I found that stringing the beads on another shuttle and using the two shuttle method is easier, for me.

OK.  I learned a lot with this one.  I really enjoy the outcome.  Here is the band.  I need to add a pendant or something else.  Plus a way to clasp it.

Tatting Shuttles - Product Review

When I first saw these shuttles, I was excited.  For anyone who does Tatting they know how annoying loading a shuttle can be.  They "click" and it is sometimes hard to hold onto them.  These shuttles have a removable bobbin that makes it, in theory, easier to load.  At about $5.00 easier is nice.

Well, not so much.  Here is the problem.  In order to remove the bobbin you have to flip up these two little tabs on the reverse side.  After slipping and poking myself with various implements, including a pair of needle point tweezers, I was finally able to bend them up with a seam ripper.  Filling the bobbin, putting it back and bending down the tabs is easy.

Here is the other problem.  Because it is thin metal the bending back and forth weakens the tabs.  After only three uses one of the tabs has snapped off.  I'm not happy with this because, well, I expected it to last longer.  It is still usable with one tab, but how long will that last?

It handles OK and I like having the little hook at the top to join picots, but I will not buy them again.  Even though they were only about $5.00 a piece, I want them to last a bit longer without breaking.

Here are my favorite shuttles.  They are Clover plastic tatting shuttles.  Although they are a bit "clicky" to load, they handle very well.  I have had these for over a year and no breaking.  They are small and light and come in a variety of colors (usually two to a pack).  At about $4.00 a pack I am very happy with them.  I bought the top one because I wanted one that looked like cow horn.  This is a bit more period look for me if I'm going to bring them to a Renaissance Faire or Re-enactment (the bright pink and blue (not pictured) just doesn't look right).

These are the ones I will go to again and again.

I also own a beautiful bone shuttle.  It will not work with the size 10 thread I am currently using but feels so wonderfully smooth and silky in my hand that I use it whenever possible.  I would definitely buy another one.

This one was about $18.00.  A bit pricey, but I really love working with it.








This is a silver filigree.  It is larger than all my others and the metal edges can be a bit cutting on the thread. I like working with it, but it's larger size can make it awkward at times.

This one was about $20.00.  I would probably now buy this one again.  I don't "love" it enough to spend that kind of money when there are the Clover plastic that I like better for a fifth of the price.

If you have a favorite Shuttle I would love to hear about it and why you love it.

Pirate Socks - Part 3 - Finished

My Pirate socks are finished.  I added a bit of Stretchtite to the top to help keep them up.  I am very proud of them.

Pirate Socks - part 2

The first sock is done.  The alterations I made after making the first pair from this pattern work very well.  It fits just right.  I will have to add a bit of elastic to the top to get it to stay up, but that is just a minor thing.

Onward to the second sock.

Pirate socks

During the late spring, summer and early fall some of my weekends are spent working as a historical re-enactor.  I play the role of a pirate, ship's Clerk of the Black Rose II.  Well, obviously I need pirate socks, but because of my heavy calfs, there are not any striped socks that fit me correctly.  So, I'm making my own. 

I'm using the same pattern as before, the Toe Up using the Eastern cast on.  I have a few things I'm changing from the last pair.  I'm making the foot an inch shorter and the leg two inches longer.  I'm using a 75% pima cotton, 25% acrylic blend from Knitpicks in a dark red and ivory color.  I'm still using the short row heel and the 2X2 ribbing, starting on the instep, stocking stitch is used on the sole.

I've seen a lot of different ways of doing a short row heel.  Most of them are very fussy and some are completely impossible to understand.  I have found a way to do them that is easier.  It's still a little fussy, but if you've ever turned a heel, well, you know that heels are just fussy no matter how you do them.  Here it is:

First a few assumptions.  You are using 3 needles, your instep stitches are all on one needle and the sole stitches are evenly divided between 2 needles.  The beginning of your rounds is in the middle of the sole stitches.  The sole stitches are on needle 1 and 3.  My sock has 34 sole stitches.  You will be working the heel straight.  Once it is done you go back to knitting rounds.

First Half:  1.  With needle 3 knit to the last stitch on needle 1.  You have one stitch on needle 1 and 33 stitches on needle 3.  Turn so the WS is facing you.
                 2.   Slip the first stitch.  Purl to the last stitch and turn.
                 3.   Slip the first stitch.  Knit to two stitches before the end, turn.
                 4.   Slip the first stitch.  Purl to two stitches before the end, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4, increasing by one the number of stitches left on the needle, until you have 12 stitches (or how ever many fit your pattern) left between the ones left on the needles.  There will be an obvious gap, but I have used stitch markers to help.

This is the first half in progress.  You can see the Gap.

Here is another view.

Here is the second half (and the part that I find fussy).  You should have the RS facing you:

          1.  Slip the first stitch then knit to the first stitch before the gap.  Slip that stitch and pick up the bar between the stitches on to the right needle and knit them together, turn.  This will begin closing the gap between the stitches.
          2.  Slip the first stitch then purl to the next stitch before the gap.  Slip that stitch and pick up the bar between the stitches on to the right needle and purl them together, turn.

Repeat these two rows until all the stitches have been used up and you have your original number of stitches on the needle.

Here is the second half in progress.  You can see the heel cup forming.

Here is the WS view.

It really is the easiest way I have seen to turn a heel.  I'm not sure if this helps anyone or makes it more confusing.  I hope it helps. 

If you have found a better way to do this, please leave a comment and let me know.  I love knitting socks but really DON'T like heels.

Finished Heel

Baby Sweater

It's done, well, except the snaps to close it.  I am very happy with the way it came out.  I'll see if I can get a picture of my grand-daughter in it if she will stay still long enough.  Seventeen month old babies are not known for that :)

Don't mind my ironing board.  I'm blocking it out.