Diary of an Intrepid Seamstress

Christmas Presents Post #3

2011-12-19T15:34:00.000-08:00

I also rehabbed a couple of wooden Jewelry Boxes for my nieces in South Carolina.

...And Christmas presents continue

2011-12-06T16:59:00.000-08:00

Or "How to rehab a $.99 Thrift Store Bear using some scrap yarn and a bit of Imagination"

Before

After

Cat Scratcher

2011-11-20T15:25:00.000-08:00

Yes, I know, last you heard I was working on an Elizabethan Corset. It is all finished except for the fitting. Well, I had a minor adjustment to make, then I had a medical procedure, then my Mom had a health issue (she is better) and then well...life happens. Now it is Christmas crunch time so it will have to wait until all the presents are finished.

In the process I got a new cat. His name is Onyx and he is not quite four months old. He was born at the end of July.


Isn't he cute

We were up at the PetCo pet care clinic today getting his shots and first checkup. Afterward we went shopping for a treat. I was looking at the Scratchers and, honestly, not one of them was worth the money they were charging for them. They were either too flimsy or too big. So...

I decided that with an old bit of 2x4, some hemp rope and a hot glue gun I would make my own.

Here's the beginning

Three hours later and a couple of singed fingertips (I can never use the hot glue gun without singeing myself) I have this. Not bad, but missing something.

Into my store of Rennie feathers I go. Some wire and a few jingle bells later and it's finished.

Onyx isn't sure what to do with it yet, but I rubbed some fresh catnip on it and I figure he will get the picture. It can also hang from a door knob if we want it to.

Once the Christmas presents are done, I promise to get back to the corset.

Adventures in Canning

2011-10-02T14:31:00.000-07:00

One of my best friends has three lovely apple trees in her yard and she is having a bumper crop this year. So everyone is getting apples. I decided to try my hand at canning. I haven't done this since helping my Mom, very many years ago. So, I started with something simple: Apple Sauce. I have made this before, only not canned it. I started with six pounds of apples, peeled, cored and sliced then into a lemon juice and water bath. Here are the apples. They are small and taste like a macintosh, maybe a bit tarter.

I don't remove all the peel. I don't mind a bit in my apple sauce


Sitting in a lemon juice and water bath waiting for the rest to be done.

I sterilized eight eight ounce jars along with their lids and rings in the large canning pot I borrowed from my Mom.


Sterilized and waiting for applely goodness

With a lid on the canning jar so as not to loose too much heat from the water and the burner off, I started cooking down the apples. The first couple of minutes you have to watch them carefully, so they don't scorch on the bottom of the pot. I had the burner on a medium high heat. These apples started to break apart in about 15 minutes.

Out came the potato masher and I broke them up. I left them a bit chunky because I like it that way. They were sweet enough and as I use apple sauce for a few different things, like baking, I usually don't sweeten it. I did spice it with about a tablespoon of cinnamon and a half teaspoon each of nutmeg and clove. I was able to fill all eight jars, leaving a half inch of space at the top, plus an eight ounce jar and a small container that I popped in the fridge.

Now for the water bath. I brought the water in the canning jar up to a nice boil and gently, using the jar grippers, put the jars into the water, making sure there was at least two inches of water above the top of the jars. I let them boil for 15 minutes, then took them out and placed them on a rack to cool. Within five minutes I heard eight "pops". They all sealed.

I know it's not sewing, but it is part of the whole getting back to hand made thing. My sewing will start up again soon. I have had some issues with my and my families health, plus several commission jobs that has set back my corset project. I also need to make a new cloak for this coming weekend.

So, I hope you liked my little canning story. There is more to come. I'm going to try to make apple pie filling, apple butter and if I can get more apples, apple jam.

Elizabethan Corset

2011-08-30T14:12:00.000-07:00

So, the bones are in and the (very ugly) fitting strips are basted on. I made the fitting strips out of scraps of heavy duty cloth and some grommets. I positioned them about where the grommets will be. Moment of truth comes as my Husband laces me in...and it is too big! Oh dear.

This is completely unexpected as the measurements are exactly following the pattern, but this will never hold me in and up. I have to take it in about 1/2" to 1" on each side. Better to know this now than when I finish it.

Here is the very ugly fitting strip.


So now I have to take it in and refit it before finishing it.

Elizabethan Corset - Boning Channels

2011-08-22T17:06:00.000-07:00

After 2.5 hours of sewing and a persnickety bobbin at the end I finally have 28 channels, plus one channel for the busk sewn in. First I had to mark them with pins, then traced them with a marker. Tomorrow I need to put the bones in then sew the bias tape around the edges.


Here they are marked and drawn.

Sewing the channels.

Elizabethan Corset - Sewing and boning

2011-08-18T15:07:00.000-07:00

I got the two pieces basted together at 1/4 inch seam as per the instructions. I did the bottom waist edge, then the back edge from top to bottom, again as per the instructions. I then went over to the table and started laying out the busk and the boning as close to the diagram as I could. Wow, this is a lot of boning.


This is the diagram that they suggest.

This is the center. The busk is in the middle.

This is the left side.

This is the right side.

It doesn't exactly match the diagram but it is very close. Tomorrow I have to sew the boning channels. What I'm going to do first is use a washout marker to mark them. Right now they are just marked with straight pins.

Onward and Upward (pardon the corset pun).

Elizabethian Corset.

2011-08-15T15:56:00.000-07:00

I finished my orange gored skirt so I started the corset. I took the pattern and laid it over the heavy linen I have. It was folded and I laid the front of the pattern on the fold. I traced around the pattern with a purple washout marker.

Here is the back tracing.

The front tracing and the wooden busk.

I cut the fabric then laid it over the soft cotton outer layer and cut that out also.

Heavy Linen

Cotton outer layer.

This was all I had time for. I need to put these two layers together then mark the boning channels.

Spiced Orange Gored skirt - Done

2011-08-15T15:50:00.000-07:00

I'm very pleased with the way this one came out. It looks great with the crinoline underneath. The only thing I may do, if I decide to use it as an over skirt would be to put lacings up the opening. As of right now I just plan on using it as an underskirt the three grommets on each side can stand.

This is the opening I was talking about. Normally I'll wear this in the back.

This is the front. I like the A line that the crinoline gives it.

Back view. Normally this is where I would turn the lacings.

Right side. I have to admit, this line makes my waist and butt look good :).

On to the Corset (YIKES).

Spice Orange Gored skirt - Ready to sew

2011-08-10T14:52:00.000-07:00

I washed, shrank and ironed the fabric for my skirt. I had already made one gored skirt, but I had to redo the measurements because, YAY, I have lost weight and am smaller in the waist. I'm using a 3:1 ratio so the bottom is 3 times the measurement of the top. I'm using eight gores. So, take your waist measure and add 4 then divide by 8. That is the top measurement of your gore. Multiply that by 3 for the bottom measurement. Length is from your waist to the floor, taking into consideration any underpinnings you may be using like a crinoline or a farthingale. Also remember to add your seam for your waistband and your hem. Once you have the gores cut, round off the corners on the bottom a bit. It makes hemming a lot easier.

I'm using a set on waistband. I'm going to make it about 2 inches wide and just big enough to fit my waist because I'm going to use a lace up closing instead of an elastic waistband. I think it will be less mess around the waist. I'm going to have the waistband of the bloomers, crinoline, underskirt, shirt, corset and the over gown so I'm trying to eliminate as much bunching as possible. For the over gown I'm going to have to take a waist measurement with everything else on so it will fit. That will probably add about an inch to the waist measurement. Jeesh, you wonder how these women walked around with all this on all the time.

Pictures coming soon.

Shirt

2011-08-07T18:50:00.000-07:00

All finished. I cuffed the sleeves and put three rows of stitching on them. I sewed in button holes and put buttons on. I then make trim for the neckline from strips of the same fabric and put two rows of stitching on them. Unfortunately, there was no way to get the trim around the neckline by using the machine, so I had to hand sew it on (yuck). Here's how it came out.

Here is the whole thing.

Button cuff and stitch detail.

Neck line

Detail of stitching on the neck line.

Elizabethan Corset - On hold

2011-08-06T14:56:00.000-07:00

I know, lesson one of sewing projects, make sure you have everything you need before you begin a project. Well, I had to order a busk, didn't have anything here I could use, so until it comes in I'm on hold. This isn't a bad thing because I am addressing a few small projects that I need to do.

Like the shirt I'm almost through with made of a lightweight cotton in a natural color. I'm making it with close fitting sleeves with some decorative stitching on the cuff and on the neck band that will go around the square neckline. It will look something like vines. I'm also making the cuff a button cuff, that way I can learn how to make a button hole on this machine. It's not like my other one which was one step. It doesn't look hard, I just need to practice. I'll post pictures of it when I'm done.

I'm also supposed to hear from the friend about the pants and that will take some time also. If they aren't in by then I can start on the orange gored skirt.

Elizabethan Corset - The pattern

2011-08-03T13:29:00.000-07:00

This is what I used to generate my corset pattern. Corset Pattern Generator

I had to tape two leaves of tissue paper together. Got out my pencil, straight ruler and measuring tape and followed the directions. Then turned over the paper and started again because I realized I didn't have the whole illustration printed out. Hint: Use the small illustration button so it all prints.

Finally got the pattern.

Back of the pattern.

Front of the pattern.

One of the things that isn't intuitive about this is that it is a back lacing corset. When you cut it you fold your fabric and the front of the pattern goes on the fold. I have a very heavy linen for the corset and I'm thinking of a lighter cotton for the outer layer and the boning channels. I have to order a busk as I don't have one.

Cutting and putting together comes next.

Project List - Bloomers/PJ Pants

2011-08-02T13:26:00.000-07:00

OK, the bloomers are done and I figure I can double use them as PJ pants so that a two for one. I'm not going to go into any detail about bloomers. Simple pair of knee length pants with an elastic waist. No big deal. So...drum roll please...time to start the Elizabethan Corset. I don't have anymore excuses.

Project list:

1.   Finish two pair of pants for Scott.
2.   Perfect the pattern for an Elizabethan Corset. Yes I know I've been talking about this one for a very long time but, it's time has come.
3.   Make Elizabethan Corset for Jenn..
4.   Make Purple 16th century gown with a non-boned bodice as the corset mentioned above is worn underneath it. This will have set in sleeves that bell out and are lined in orange (silk if there is enough) and turned back. It will also have a split skirt attached.
5.   Make Spiced Orange silk stomacher to go with above bodice.
6.   Make Spiced Orange gored underskirt. (Are you noticing the pattern yet)

Project list - Work basket gusset

2011-08-01T12:01:00.000-07:00

I split the seam and put a small gusset in the liner. All better.

Here is the pocket in the front. I have some small things, like needle threaders, that always end up at the bottom so, a pocket.

Fits rather nice now.

Yeah, I keep some stuff in here.

Here's the back. The ribbon holds it tight.

Next is a pair of bloomers, then I start the Elizabethan Corset. The heavy linen is currently being washed and shrunk.

Project List - Basket liner

2011-07-30T15:47:00.000-07:00

This is the basket liner I'm replacing. It's a perfectly good liner, but it's not what you would call "Period Correct" for either the SCA or a Renaissance Faire. I'm using bits of muslin left over from another project. I cut the pieces using this liner as a pattern, with the addition of a pocket on the front piece (I love pockets). Got everything stitched up and...it didn't fit. Grrrrr.

Really easy fix for it, all I have to do is slit the back side seam and put a gusset in there. I just don't understand where I went wrong. Oh well. I stitched a thin yellow ribbon on the sides and the back so that it will tie around the handles on the sides and the hinges on the back. I'll decorate it with the tags I've collected from various SCA and Renaissance events.

So, project list now looks like this:

1.   Finish two pair of pants for Scott.
2.   Perfect the pattern for an Elizabethan Corset. Yes I know I've been talking about this one for a very long time but, it's time has come.
3.   Make Elizabethan Corset for Jenn..
4.   Make Purple 16th century gown with a non-boned bodice as the corset mentioned above is worn underneath it. This will have set in sleeves that bell out and are lined in orange (silk if there is enough) and turned back. It will also have a split skirt attached.
5.   Make Spiced Orange silk stomacher to go with above bodice.
6.   Make Spiced Orange gored underskirt. (Are you noticing the pattern yet)
7.   Make another pair of plain bloomers.
8.   Make a pair of pj pants.

The bloomers are next. Then comes the Elizabethan Corset. This is a project that I've been putting off for a while now. Yes, Jenn, I know.

Project List - Corded Petticoat - Finished

2011-07-29T16:42:00.000-07:00

It's done. I sewed in the channels then sewed up the side seam. Then came one of the things I don't like doing, I had to fish stuff. I fished 8 lengths of sisel rope through the channels and two inch wide elastic through the waistband. I wrapped the end of the rope in duct tape so it wouldn't unravel.

I'm straightening the rope in the hem over the backs of two chairs.

This is the rope I used.

OK, here is the new list.

1.   Finish two pair of pants for Scott.
2.   Perfect the pattern for an Elizabethan Corset. Yes I know I've been talking about this one for a very long time but, it's time has come.
3.   Make Elizabethan Corset for Jenn..
4.   Make Purple 16th century gown with a non-boned as the corset mentioned above is worn underneath it.
5.   Make Spiced Orange silk stomacher to go with above bodice.
6.   Make Spiced Orange gored underskirt. (Are you noticing the pattern yet)
7.   Make Spiced Orange sleeves, if I have enough material left from skirt.
8.   Make another pair of plain bloomers.
9.   Make a pair of pj pants
10. Make a new liner for my work basket.

I'm probably going to make the liner for my work basket next.

Project List - Corded Petticoat

2011-07-28T17:41:00.000-07:00

I have some soft, soft, soft cotton/linen blend that I had washed and shrunk in my fabric stash. It was just enough for a petticoat with a bit left over. I'm making this for two reasons. The first is for those skirts/gowns that I don't want a lot of poof but I would like a bit of shape. The second is to go over the crinoline for added poof. So I had to make it large enough to go over the crinoline. So I put the crinoline on and loosely draped the fabric around and cut.

Back at the sewing machine I put a 2.5 inch waist band on it and an inch and a half hem. A piece of rope will go through the hem. Then, well, I cheated. I took another length of the fabric and sewed it to the bottom half of the petticoat. I did this in two pieces do there would be an opening so I could fish the rope through the channels. I then marked of the rope channels, 1.5 inches for the channel and two inches between. The rope I'm using is a heavy hemp rope used as a laundry line.

I'll sew up the channels and the seam tomorrow. Then I'll fish the rope through.

This is the panel of fabric I'm using to sew channels instead of using something like bias tape.

Here is the opening.

The channel markings. I find that the marking pens and pencils fade way too fast.

Pictures of the finished product tomorrow

Project list - Crinoline

2011-07-27T17:08:00.000-07:00

While I was waiting for Scott to come for his final fitting on his pants, I decided to tackle my crinoline. I decided to use a white cotton petticoat that I had tried to turn into a hope skirt but it just wasn't working. In retrospect I should have cut open a seam and taken the elastic out of the waistband before beginning to put the netting on. Ah well, lesson for the future.

I had 10 yards of very wide netting so I did 3 layers of double thickness. First I hemmed the skirt up so that it was ankle length instead of floor length. Then I started with the first layer. I had to put a running stitch through the netting because I don't have a ruffle foot for my machine (yet).

This is me hand ruffling 10 yards of netting.

So, once the ruffling was done I sewed on the first layer. This was the bottom layer that matched up to the bottom hem of the skirt.


Bottom layer.

The next layer went about three quarters of the way up. At this point it looked like the petticoat that ate the sewing table.

Lastly came the last layer. This one went from below the waistband to the hem. This was actually the worst layer to put on. Here is why I say I should have pulled the hem and the elastic before starting. It's not the prettiest crinoline I've ever seen, but it will make my skirts more poofy, especially with a corded petticoat on top.

Looks like a weird ballet skirt. But no one will see it and my skirts will have more shape.

So, there you go, my crinoline.

My project list now looks like this.

1.   Finish two pair of pants for Scott.
2.   Perfect the pattern for an Elizabethan Corset. Yes I know I've been talking about this one for a very long time but, it's time has come.
3.   Make Elizabethan Corset for Jenn.
4. Make corded petticoats.
5.   Make Purple 16th century gown with a non-boned as the corset mentioned above is worn underneath it.
6.   Make Spiced Orange silk stomacher to go with above bodice.
7.   Make Spiced Orange gored underskirt. (Are you noticing the pattern yet)
8.   Make Spiced Orange sleeves, if I have enough material left from skirt.
9.   Make another pair of plain bloomers.
10. Make a pair of pj pants
11. Make a new liner for my work basket.

I'm going to wash and shrink the material for the corded petticoat tomorrow. I know I'm not doing them in order, but I'm picking the quick projects to do while waiting for the final fitting.

Stay tuned.

Nalebinding

2011-07-23T18:30:00.000-07:00

Well, I finished it by putting earflaps on it. It's cute and will fit a small child.

Nalebinding

2011-07-23T14:20:00.000-07:00

I finally learned how to do this. Thank you to the ever beautiful Miss Evy for showing me. I've made a hat for a small baby out of a beautiful warm wool. I really like this technique. Must learn more.


I need to spiff it up a bit, but this is the basic hat.

Project list update.

2011-07-23T14:09:00.000-07:00

I have a pair of pants cut and partially sewn. Need Scott to come over and try them on for a fitting. Have the fabric for the other pair washed and shrunk in the dryer. I bought the heavy linen, enough for 2 Elizabethan corsets and I picked up the last of the netting for the crinoline.

I'm starting to draw out the plan for the Henry the VII Noble garb. I also have the fabric and the boning for all the underpinnings. I've been researching the cut and look, plus been looking at the hats. I'll be attempting to cover a small top hat to match. From my research it actually looks like the bodice and the split skirt are one piece. The skirt is either gored or gathered at the waist to give it the fullness it needs to go over the farthingale (or in my case a crinoline) and a bum roll (not certain about making one of these).

So the new list looks like this:

1.   Finish two pair of pants for Scott.
2.   Perfect the pattern for an Elizabethan Corset. Yes I know I've been talking about this one for a very long time but, it's time has come.
3.   Make Elizabethan Corset for Jenn.
4. Make crinolan and corded petticoats.
5.   Make Purple 16th century gown with a non-boned as the corset mentioned above is worn underneath it.
6.   Make Spiced Orange silk stomacher to go with above bodice.
7.   Make Spiced Orange gored underskirt. (Are you noticing the pattern yet)
8.   Make Spiced Orange sleeves, if I have enough material left from skirt.
9.   Make another pair of plain bloomers.
10. Make a pair of pj pants
11. Make a new liner for my work basket.

I know, the list is supposed to get smaller, not longer. Ah well.

Project list.

2011-07-15T09:25:00.000-07:00

Oy Vey, I have got to get organized or I'm just not going to get what I want done. So, here I am writing down what I want to get done and in the order I have to do them no less. The frantic need to get stuff done by some horrid deadline is now over (Thank you).

1. Finish two pair of pants for Scott.
2. Perfect the pattern for an Elizabethan Corset. Yes I know I've been talking about this one for a very long time but, it's time has come.
3. Make Elizabethan Corset for Jenn.
4. Make crinolan and corded petticoats.
5. Make Purple 16th century bodice, not boned as the corset mentioned above is worn underneath it.
6. Make Spiced Orange silk stomacher to go with above bodice.
7. Make Spiced Orange gored underskirt. (Are you noticing the pattern yet)
8. Make Purple gored split skirt.
9. Make Spiced Orange sleeves, if I have enough material left from skirt.

If you didn't notice the pattern, I'm going for a Noble garb that you may have seen in Henry the Seventh's court. I have a mini-tricorn hat in a beautiful antique gold that I may wear with it or I may make a cover for my Elizabethan tall hat. Haven't decided on that yet.

Ideally, this will all be done for CTRF in the fall. We are aiming for an October visit so, I don't see that this isn't possible. Especially with my new "MOAR POWER" machines.

The Kate Holly Clark Chemise

2011-07-06T14:27:00.000-07:00

Better known as the 20 Minute chemise, although she is the only one I know who can make it in 20 minutes.

I wanted one that I could close the sleeves with a draw string and one that would be off the shoulder. It is about mid calf length but I have plenty of the material left to put a deep ruffle on it if I want it floor length. OK, here we go.

Take your length of fabric and wrap it around your bust 1 and 1/2 times. If you want floor length make sure the width is long enough to reach the floor from your shoulders. This is your body piece. For your arm you need two pieces that are long enough to reach from your neckline to your wrist, plus hem allowance, and wide enough to go around your arm comfortably. Clear (yeah, I know, as mud).

Now take your body piece and fold it in 1/2 lengthwise, then in half again. From the corner measure out 6 inches across the top and then down the length (or if you are generously proportioned like I am, 8 inches). Cut that corner off. Then, with the fold of the sleeve at the top, match up the sleeve bottom and cut a matching line.

The body is on the bottom and the sleeve is on the top right.

Unfold the body and you should have two sides with the corners cut off and one with an open side. First thing you want to do is attach the sleeves. Pin one side of the cut to the front of the body and the other side of the cut to the back, keeping the fold of the sleeve on top. Do this to the other side and sew the sleeves on.

Sleeve pinned on.

Sleeve sewn on.

Once you have both the sleeves on you want to sew up the one side seam and the sleeve seam.

Sew side seam up to sleeve.

Turn the piece and sew up the sleeve.

Sew up the second sleeve, the one without the side seam. Sew the sleeve seam then turn and sew a little corner so you don't have a hole in your underarm.


Sleeve without the side seam.

OK, here comes the hardest part. The neckline needs to be rolled and the top of the sleeves become part of the neckline. This part is hard to explain. It took me a few tries and I still get weird gathers by the sleeve seams. My friend Kate can not only do this without weirdness, but she can actually do it with the elastic in it. I know, don't hate, she has been doing this for a while. I want to be her when I grow up.

Just trust me. Even with weird gathers, because it is either elastic neck or drawstring it comes out looking good. Just remember to leave an opening for which ever you choose to be fed through.

Pinning the neckline.

Hem the sleeves, if you are adding a drawstring or elastic remember to leave the opening to thread it through. Hem the bottom and you're done. You can wear this on or off the shoulder. You can do several different treatments with the sleeves. It works well and is very simple to put together once you have done it a few times. Just to show you that it does work, here are the bad mirror pictures.

Don't mind the bra strap. See it looks right.

You can't even see the weird gathers.

I wanted drawstring arms.

OK...there you go. Give it a try and you'll see it works.

11th Century Bliaunt - Green FINISHED

2011-07-05T19:56:00.000-07:00

I got my new to me Necchi 575FA machine this afternoon. It's so amazing. This baby works like a charm. I was able to finish the trim on my Bliaunt and make a Kate Holly Clark special chemise. One of these days I will post the directions for this, but it takes drawing and I'm really bad at that.

Here is my new machine.

Isn't it great.

The model number.

Here is the finished Bliaunt. I'll get pictures of me in it when I can.

Well, that's it. I love this pattern so there may be more variants in the future. Thanks for sticking with me on this one. It was longer than it should, but I got two great machines out of it and learned that unless you are just a beginner or don't sew that much, stay away from plastic throw away machines.

11th Century Bliaunt - Green - Back in business

2011-07-03T18:48:00.000-07:00

Thanks to a very wonderful friend (Kate) who seems to collect used sewing machines I'm back in business. She had an older Necchi that was sitting around doing nothing, so she gave it to me as a spare machine. Once I got it cleaned up and de-linted (wow, there was a lot of lint), I started playing. Yes, I spent $10.00 for a download of the users manual. I figured out what the problem was with the tension. Got everything adjusted and, bam, can this machine chew through a hem. I'm going to have to get more bobbins, because my old singer bobbins won't fit. Not a problem.


It's it pretty.

I got the gussets sewn in and I got the sleeves and bottom hemmed up. All I have left is the trim and this one is in the bag.

Thank you my dear Kate for getting me back in business.

A Requiem to my sewing machine

2011-07-02T16:38:00.000-07:00

My poor Singer Simple sewing machine is gone. A moment of silence please.

It has been acting up badly for the last few projects. Odd jams, a squeak that would drive me almost to drink, needles that wouldn't stay in and bobbin issues that were making me have to stop just about every few inches and reload it or fuss with the tension. I brought it to a wonderful older gentleman who repairs and sells machines.

He was very honest with me. He said that these Singer machines are all plastic gears and almost impossible to take apart to get them fixed. He said he would take a look at it and if it was going to be more than $60.00 to fix it, he would call me. He then recommended a Necchi he had used for $125.00, after carefully questioning me about what I make and how often I work with my machine. He said that since the Necchi were metal gears it was a real workhorse and would suit my needs.

No, I didn't take his word for it, I came home and did some research. He was right. This would be a perfect machine for me. Got the call from him that my Singer can't be fixed as several of the parts needing to be replaced cannot be because Singer doesn't make them anymore.

OK, so as soon as I can (got some kind of 24 hour stomach thing) I'm going over there to get my new to me Necchi machine. He said he would put my name on it. I'm excited about this, as I have to still finish my green bliaunt and at least one chemise.

So, good bye old friend. You serviced me well and I had a lot of fun learning to sew on you.

Beaded Snood - Finished

2011-07-01T05:49:00.000-07:00

All finished. I just strung 545 beads to make a large. Yes, I'm nuts.

11th century Bliaunt - At an impass

2011-06-30T19:32:00.000-07:00

Well, I thought I would be posting that I finished my green Bliaunt today, but I've hit a major snag. I got the gussets pinned and sewn up and the arms sewn up. Tried it on and realized that the bobbin thread hadn't caught. I spent two hours sewing and fighting with a jamming bobbin and cleaning and taking the bobbin casing apart only to have it all go up in flames. Argh.

Good news is a guy in the town 15 minutes away fixes singers and gives free estimates. I also have two wonderful friends who are going to loan me a sewing machine and to help me find a backup.

OK, next...

11th Century Bliaunt - Green - Day 1

2011-06-29T10:45:00.000-07:00

I've changed a few things on this one. It's a few inches longer and I have to put a back gusset in along with the two side gussets. The side gussets are right triangles and the back one is two right triangles that I will sew together. The fabric is a beautiful dark green cotton. It is a bit shorter than 4 yards so I had to finagle just a bit. Hey, no problem, it was free (thank you Kate).

Today I got all the pieces cut out. Front and back pieces, two bell arms and four right triangle gussets. The neckline is a bit more square.

I trimmed the neckline and then covered the back top with bias tape. Then I sewed the shoulder seams together. I turned the piece right side out and sewed the back neck down. I then pinned on and sewed the sleeves onto the body. Not bad considering all I intended to do way cut it out today.

Neckline

Back of the neck

Arm seam

11th Century Bliaunt - The Green one

2011-06-28T13:05:00.000-07:00

I'm making another Bliaunt in dark green with a white/green thistle trim. Here is the fabric and the trim.

Beaded snood - Day 2

2011-06-28T13:02:00.000-07:00

Here is what it looks like so far. What do you think?

Beaded snood

2011-06-28T09:42:00.000-07:00

This is going to be a bit more of a project than my normal snood. I can usually knock one of those off in, oh, about 2 days of causal work. Not this one. I have to string 436 gold glass beads on the crochet cotton before I can even start to crochet. I use a needle threader to do this as I don't have a needle that will take the size 10 cotton and still go through the bead.

Yikes, 436 beads and 3 needle threaders later I'm done. I'll start crocheting tomorrow.

11th Century Bliaunt - Pictures of me in it

2011-06-23T18:16:00.000-07:00

Front view

Side View

Arm

Back

11th Century Bliaunt - FINISHED

2011-06-23T15:13:00.000-07:00

It's finished. I am so happy with the way it came out. I hemmed both sleeves and trimmed them.

I then hemmed the bottom. I am thrilled that there was enough trim to do the bottom also. I have so much left over that I made a cross over belt out of some of it. I basically just took a nice long length and sewed the ends over. i will probably add tassels to the ends.

The next thing I need to complete this is a stomacher. This is next.

11th Century Bliaunt - Day 3

2011-06-22T15:26:00.000-07:00

It is fully sewn up. I sewed the gussets to one side, went to pin it to the other side and, %$#@, ripped the gusset out because I sewed it on backwards. Pinned it and sewed it on the right way.

Once I had the gussets sewn the correct way, I pinned the other side up. It gets a little tricky so I start pinning from the underarm down to the hem. I pinned both sides and tried it on. That way, if anything needs to be adjusted, I can do it before it is all sewn up. I tried it on over a tee shirt so I could judge what it would fit like with something underneath because I will be wearing it with a chemise. It fit fine so I struggled out of it (yup, pins and all) and went to the sewing machine. One side all sewn up, including the sleeve seam and that is when my bobbin empties. I never have that kind of luck. It usually happens mid seam :). Re-wind the bobbin and sew the other side up.

Here is the bell sleeve

Here is the full length.

All that is left is hemming the sleeves, the bottom and trimming it out.

Onward and upward.

11th century Bliaunt - Day 2

2011-06-21T18:03:00.000-07:00

Today was sew the body pieces together, trim out the neckline and sew on the sleeves day. I wanted to do the side gussets too, but I over did it with visiting my SIL at the hospital then running five different errands in five different stores, so I was completely out of energy. But, I was determined to do some sewing today.

The first thing I did was sew some thin grosgrain ribbon on the top of the back piece. This will make the back of the neckline look cleaner and make it smoother. I trimmed the front neckline. It came out more V neck instead of scoop with a keyhole. I definitely need more practice with necklines other than square. I may redo the trimming later.

Once the shoulder seams were sewn, I pinned the back neckline down and stitched it down. I think it looks clean and neat.

I then centered the top of the sleeves on the shoulder seams and pinned them down. Back over to the sewing machine to stitch them up.

This is as far as I got today. Tomorrow I want to get the gussets in and stitch up the sides and the under sleeve. Then I can try it on and hem the sleeves, then trim them. Last will be hemming the bottom and seeing if I have enough trim to do the whole hem. If not, I may do something down the sides.

Stay tuned.

...and so it begins - 11th Century Bliaunt

2011-06-20T13:07:00.000-07:00

I'm making an 11th century Bliaunt. This is a gown that is tight fitting on the top and flowing on the bottom. It has long sleeves that starts tight at the top and bells out towards the bottom. It has a shallow scoop neck with a keyhole at the middle. It can also have a square neckline, but I'm going with the scoop.

I cut two pieces for the body, the front piece has the neckline cut out. I cut two sleeves that will bell to about 18" at the end. I also cut two gussets that will give the fullness starting at the waist to the end. Traditionally, this style is made with a gusset in the front and back also, but I'm not that fond of sewing in gussets. I need more practice before I'm completely comfortable with this.

I have enough fabric left over to make a belt. I'm also making a stomacher of a blue brocade to go with it. An 11th century stomacher is a very wide belt that laces up the back. You can either wear a Bliaunt with a stomacher or a belt wrapped high under the bust, crossed in the back and tied in the front. You can also wear both, which is my plan.

The trim will go around the neckline and the sleeves, and if I have enough around the hem. Underneath this I will wear a chemise of blue/gray with tight sleeves all the way down. I plan to eventually do some embroidery around the cuffs and neckline of the chemise. We'll see about that. A veil of the same fabric will round out the 11th century outfit.


The fabric is a cotton/linen blend and the trim is a tapestry type trim.

Oh, by the way, I need to complete at least two Bliaunts and one, preferably two chemises and veils for the second weekend in July for GNEW (an SCA event which I will be vending and attending as a new SCA member).

Bodice

2011-06-05T12:43:00.000-07:00

As promised...pictures of Kat in her new bodice. I'm really very proud of the way it came out.

Isn't she beautiful

Back view, as Kat fights with steal she wanted the effect of a skirt without needing to hike it up.

Bodice - Day 6

2011-06-03T18:12:00.000-07:00

Have I told you how much I hate setting grommets. So I have these two craft tools that I bought a while ago. One is a pliers like thing to set grommets, the other is a stapler like thing that is supposed to do the same. I have had to fight with these damn things every time I've needed them. The grommets I bought for the bodice came with this metal die and a hard plastic disk, so I tried that. BAM with the hammer and the grommet goes in like magic.

WHY DIDN'T I KNOW ABOUT THIS BEFORE?

WHY DIDN'T ONE OF MY FRIENDS TELL ME ABOUT THIS?

Am I now part of a secret club because I figured this out?

Oh, and where do I buy different sizes of these miracle tools?

I feel like I just stumbled on a $1000.00 bill. I have fought so much with setting grommets that the thought of having to do it makes me a bit annoyed. Now, No Problem, just give me a hammer and a sturdy table.

So I have to go get more grommets, because I don't have enough of the correct size for the straps. I thought I had another pack.

BTW anyone want a couple of slightly used grommet setting tools? No, OK they go into the yard sale box.

Bodice - day 5

2011-06-02T14:58:00.000-07:00

All finished except for the grommets (have I told you how much I hate setting grommets). I sewed the red outer fabric to the liner, taking care not to hit the bones when sewing along the outer edge. I wanted to sew it in one clean sweep. HA. Because of the stiffening of the interfacing and the boning there was no way this was going to happen. I did get the outer layer folded over the liner so the edges look clean.

As you can see at the very top, I had to slit the fabric a bit to get it around the curves.

I then cut out the tails and liners for them. I sewed them together and pinned them to the back, from the center out. I stitched them on the bottom, then folded the red outer fabric over the bottom to make a clean edge on the front bottom and stitched straight across. This also saved me from having to tack down, by hand, the seam made by the tails.

Please ignore the garbage bag behind the tails. It's fabric that hasn't found a home yet. Ah, fabric stashes.

So, all done except for the grommets (groan).

The reason for the tails: My friend sword fights and wanted the effect of a skirt in the back without having to wear one and hitch it up. When she comes to pick it up, there will be modeling pictures.

Bodice - day 4

2011-06-01T14:09:00.000-07:00

I cut and pinned the red cotton to the liner. I ironed the heavy duty interface onto the back and straps of the top. Now I just have to sew it together and add the tails.


This is the liner pinned to the red fabric.

I had to notch the red to fit around the curve.

How it looks so far.

Bodice - Day three

2011-05-31T13:24:00.000-07:00

Kat came over on Saturday so I was able to fit her. I took the straps in a bit because they would rub under the arms (not a good place for that). I also took the back top down a bit and we needed to shorten it a bit. What I did was push up the boning a bit and re-stitch the bottom. I then sewed some muslin on the top so the bones won't slip out. I trimmed the sides, after taking both in a 1/4" and trimmed the bottom.

I cut the interface that will stiffen the back and the straps. I have to leave enough room at the outline so I can fold the red top material over and stitch it down. That way I don't have to use bias tape around the edges.

Tomorrow is cutting the top red material, iron the interface in and sew the top and front seams together. Then I need to cut the tails, sew them together and stitch to the top. Set the grommets and she is done.

Here are pictures of my progress so far:


Here is the finished boning channels. They won't slip out.

cut pieces of interface

these go on the back to add extra support without boning.

Hopefully, more pictures tomorrow.

Bodice - Day 2

2011-05-24T18:08:00.000-07:00

Today I got the side seams sewn up and the strip of fabric sewn into place. I then stitched up the boning channels on each side.

You can see I put one bone at the front, then left a place for the grommets. I then put the rest of the bones in.

I'm now waiting for the friend to come over for an initial fitting.

Bodice for a friend - Day 1

2011-05-19T13:02:00.000-07:00

I finally have my sewing area back. My Beloved moved the "new to us" refrigerator into place and moved the old refrigerator out into the mud room (YAY more fridge and freezer space).

So, I drafted the bodice pattern for Kat from a sleeveless shirt she left for me. I cut out the back in one piece. This will be stiffened with fusible interfacing. I cut the front two pieces and then decided to cut two pieces of lining that I can sew boning channels in, so I don't have to use bias tape and it's muslin so it will be more breathable. I have 1/4 inch wide, 10 inch long steel spiral boning and a few 1/2 inch wide steel spiral boning I'm using in the very front. I have a feeling that I'm going to have to take the sides in and cut the arm strap a bit deeper.

I have to sew the boning panel in and sew the sides to the back and we will be ready for the first fitting.

Pants for a friend

2011-05-06T12:32:00.000-07:00

I've been working on a pair of pants in a medium weight cotton broadcloth for a fellow crew member. He gave me a pair of pants that fit him and said "use this as a pattern". Well, as most of you know, I'm still a novice seamstress, so I took him at his word. Not a great idea. The pants he gave me where dress pants made of a very stretchy fabric.

Back to the drawing board. At this point I took some measurements of my own and started from there. I basted up the main seams and had him come over for a fitting. We determined that the waist had to come in a bit and the leg needed to taper a bit, but the fit was good. Pulled out the basting and sewed up the front pieces together (I used one solid back piece). Put two square pockets on the outside of the front and put inseam pockets in and sewed them up. I used what I call a serging stitch. It is the one that has two lines of stitches with a triangle in between. I felt better about re-enforcing the seams.

I've also been crocheting snoods and bags like a mad women.

So, now all that is left is the final fitting, then hemming them and putting the grommets in the opening. I'll get a picture of him in them when they are all done.

Building Stock and re-arranging my sewing area

2011-04-26T18:03:00.000-07:00

I'm vending at the Great North Eastern War in July so I have been working on building up stock. I also have three projects for friends. So, I haven't been idle. One of the problems is I can't sit for very long at my sewing machine. I finally figured out one of the problems. I wasn't sitting properly. I have now switched out the table where my sewing machine is so I'm not hunching. This should help the pain in my back.

Here is a picture gallery of the stuff I have done so far:

Isn't she cute. This is a crocheted skunk made for a friend from fun fur (that stuff is evil to work with).

Just over two yards of cording made with my Lucet. I have six lengths.

A netted hair net modeled by my wonderful friend Jenn

A daisy drawstring bag. I made three of these.


A blue rose print drawstring bag. I have two of these. It is lined with the same fabric.

These are all available in my Artfire store.

I will post pictures of the pants I'm making for a friend and a bodice I am making for another friend.

Yes, Robin the rumors of a corset is true, but I have to get some of this stuff done first. I promise to post about it.

Historical Socks

2011-03-31T15:54:00.000-07:00

I found this pattern in the last edition of PieceWork magazine. It is based on a pair of stockings they found in 1951, in a bog in Gunnister, Scotland. They have dated the material to the 17th century.


These are the actual stockings. They were repaired (not well) in several places and the bottom of the foot was a separate piece, obviously the original foot wore out.

As the pattern was written for a man, the foot measurement had to be altered to fit my smaller foot. I also had to alter the thigh and calf measurements to fit my, rather heavy, leg. This was a fascinating project because it is a reproduction of an actual historical garment. The original was in a wool yarn that would have been comparable to what we call sport weight. I used a cotton ( 75%) and poly (25%) fingering weight. I swatched it to find a needle size, because the pattern was written for a size 1. I ended up using a size 3.

I'm thrilled with how it came out. There is a clock pattern on the sides of the ankle, the back seam is 14 st wide starting with a garter stitch (p1, then next row k1), 3 knit stitches, another garter stitch, 4 knit stitches, a garter stitch, 3 knit stitches and ending with a garter stitch. It makes the decreases very neat.


Here is the clock pattern.

This is the back seam.

The color is a dove brown, the top picture is closer to the real color. I had a lot of fun with this pattern, even if I did have to graft the toes using the Kitchner Stitch :).

Black Tatted Choker with Red Beads - Finished

2011-03-14T07:11:00.000-07:00

I did decide that it needed something. I had this necklace that I have never worn (don't remember where it came from). I think it is just the thing. I cannibalized the chain for the closure. This will fit a 14" and up neck.

If you like this, click on my Artfire shop at the top.

Tatted Choker with beading

2011-03-10T18:22:00.000-08:00

My latest project is almost finished. This one gave me the figits. The first problem was the black cotton. It is what is, in my opinion sarcastically, called "Lively" yarn. In other words, it twists all to blazes. Not too bad if you are working with, say, a sport weight yarn and knitting or crocheting it. When it is a size 10 cotton string you are trying to tat. Yikes!

Second problem is that I haven't tatted with beads before, so, I was working on the assumption that stringing the beads on the ball and using that to create the chains. This is what you do when you are crocheting with beads. Not so easy, at least for me. I found that stringing the beads on another shuttle and using the two shuttle method is easier, for me.

OK. I learned a lot with this one. I really enjoy the outcome. Here is the band. I need to add a pendant or something else. Plus a way to clasp it.

Tatting Shuttles - Product Review

2011-03-04T10:36:00.000-08:00

When I first saw these shuttles, I was excited. For anyone who does Tatting they know how annoying loading a shuttle can be. They "click" and it is sometimes hard to hold onto them. These shuttles have a removable bobbin that makes it, in theory, easier to load. At about $5.00 easier is nice.

Well, not so much. Here is the problem. In order to remove the bobbin you have to flip up these two little tabs on the reverse side. After slipping and poking myself with various implements, including a pair of needle point tweezers, I was finally able to bend them up with a seam ripper. Filling the bobbin, putting it back and bending down the tabs is easy.

Here is the other problem. Because it is thin metal the bending back and forth weakens the tabs. After only three uses one of the tabs has snapped off. I'm not happy with this because, well, I expected it to last longer. It is still usable with one tab, but how long will that last?

It handles OK and I like having the little hook at the top to join picots, but I will not buy them again. Even though they were only about $5.00 a piece, I want them to last a bit longer without breaking.

Here are my favorite shuttles. They are Clover plastic tatting shuttles. Although they are a bit "clicky" to load, they handle very well. I have had these for over a year and no breaking. They are small and light and come in a variety of colors (usually two to a pack). At about $4.00 a pack I am very happy with them. I bought the top one because I wanted one that looked like cow horn. This is a bit more period look for me if I'm going to bring them to a Renaissance Faire or Re-enactment (the bright pink and blue (not pictured) just doesn't look right).

These are the ones I will go to again and again.

I also own a beautiful bone shuttle. It will not work with the size 10 thread I am currently using but feels so wonderfully smooth and silky in my hand that I use it whenever possible. I would definitely buy another one.

This one was about $18.00. A bit pricey, but I really love working with it.

This is a silver filigree. It is larger than all my others and the metal edges can be a bit cutting on the thread. I like working with it, but it's larger size can make it awkward at times.

This one was about $20.00. I would probably now buy this one again. I don't "love" it enough to spend that kind of money when there are the Clover plastic that I like better for a fifth of the price.

If you have a favorite Shuttle I would love to hear about it and why you love it.

Pirate Socks - Part 3 - Finished

2011-03-03T16:46:00.000-08:00

My Pirate socks are finished. I added a bit of Stretchtite to the top to help keep them up. I am very proud of them.

Pirate Socks - part 2

2011-02-24T07:23:00.000-08:00

The first sock is done. The alterations I made after making the first pair from this pattern work very well. It fits just right. I will have to add a bit of elastic to the top to get it to stay up, but that is just a minor thing.

Onward to the second sock.

Pirate socks

2011-02-17T18:09:00.000-08:00

During the late spring, summer and early fall some of my weekends are spent working as a historical re-enactor. I play the role of a pirate, ship's Clerk of the Black Rose II. Well, obviously I need pirate socks, but because of my heavy calfs, there are not any striped socks that fit me correctly. So, I'm making my own.

I'm using the same pattern as before, the Toe Up using the Eastern cast on. I have a few things I'm changing from the last pair. I'm making the foot an inch shorter and the leg two inches longer. I'm using a 75% pima cotton, 25% acrylic blend from Knitpicks in a dark red and ivory color. I'm still using the short row heel and the 2X2 ribbing, starting on the instep, stocking stitch is used on the sole.

I've seen a lot of different ways of doing a short row heel. Most of them are very fussy and some are completely impossible to understand. I have found a way to do them that is easier. It's still a little fussy, but if you've ever turned a heel, well, you know that heels are just fussy no matter how you do them. Here it is:

First a few assumptions. You are using 3 needles, your instep stitches are all on one needle and the sole stitches are evenly divided between 2 needles. The beginning of your rounds is in the middle of the sole stitches. The sole stitches are on needle 1 and 3. My sock has 34 sole stitches. You will be working the heel straight. Once it is done you go back to knitting rounds.

First Half: 1. With needle 3 knit to the last stitch on needle 1. You have one stitch on needle 1 and 33 stitches on needle 3. Turn so the WS is facing you.
   2. Slip the first stitch. Purl to the last stitch and turn.
                 3.   Slip the first stitch. Knit to two stitches before the end, turn.
                 4.   Slip the first stitch. Purl to two stitches before the end, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4, increasing by one the number of stitches left on the needle, until you have 12 stitches (or how ever many fit your pattern) left between the ones left on the needles. There will be an obvious gap, but I have used stitch markers to help.

This is the first half in progress. You can see the Gap.

Here is another view.

Here is the second half (and the part that I find fussy). You should have the RS facing you:

1. Slip the first stitch then knit to the first stitch before the gap. Slip that stitch and pick up the bar between the stitches on to the right needle and knit them together, turn. This will begin closing the gap between the stitches.
2. Slip the first stitch then purl to the next stitch before the gap. Slip that stitch and pick up the bar between the stitches on to the right needle and purl them together, turn.

Repeat these two rows until all the stitches have been used up and you have your original number of stitches on the needle.

Here is the second half in progress. You can see the heel cup forming.


Here is the WS view.

It really is the easiest way I have seen to turn a heel. I'm not sure if this helps anyone or makes it more confusing. I hope it helps.

If you have found a better way to do this, please leave a comment and let me know. I love knitting socks but really DON'T like heels.

Finished Heel

Baby Sweater

2011-02-12T13:14:00.000-08:00

It's done, well, except the snaps to close it. I am very happy with the way it came out. I'll see if I can get a picture of my grand-daughter in it if she will stay still long enough. Seventeen month old babies are not known for that :)

Don't mind my ironing board. I'm blocking it out.

Baby sweater and variegated yarn

2011-02-09T11:32:00.000-08:00

I have to say that, normally, I'm not a huge fan of variegated yarn. I seldom like the color combination and I don't like the pattern it makes. However, when my grand-daughter was in utero my Mom gave me a bunch of her yarn stash, among which was a very soft pastel variegated. I never ended up using it at the time, but now I'm using it. I am making a Raglan Sleeve Sweater for my grand-daughter.

I started this because,
     1. I am waiting for my yarn to make my pirate socks to come in.
     2. I don't have any other project going right now.
     3. I have this pattern for a top down 18 to 24 month size sweater that looks interesting.
     4. Miss Kira is going down to see her Daddy, who has been at sea for over 6 months, and she has this very cute short sleeve sweater dress that needs something to warm it up and give it a little color.
   5. I absolutely cannot exist without some kind of craft project going.

Here it is in progress. I love the raglan sleeve.

Close up of the cable and garter stitch edge.

color variation. I like the cloud effect it gives.

Tatting Lace

2011-02-05T16:46:00.000-08:00

So, I finished it. There are a few things I will do differently, but, over all, I like it.

This is a full view. I like the way it falls.

Here is a close up of the front. I'm undecided about hanging a charm or something from the bottom.

Tatting Lace

2011-01-28T06:28:00.000-08:00

Now that the holidays are over and the few left over projects are finished, I've gone back and picked up my Tatting Shuttle. I'm going to tat a lace choker. I started a runner, but I really don't like the pattern, so I have changed direction.

It is a very simple motif for the band, four loops arranged in a square. It is done in size 10 cotton string. Here is the beginning.

Knitting Shawl

2011-01-17T06:32:00.000-08:00

I finished my shawl and have enough yarn left over that I think I will make a pair of mitts to match. At Ren Faires, especially in the fall, the weather is cool enough to need something on your hands, but you need your fingers free.

Here is a pic of the pattern. I made this for a friend for Christmas and I absolutely fell in love with the pattern.

Don't you just love the color.

Knitting Mitts

2011-01-07T08:37:00.000-08:00

I always have cold hands. Mittens and gloves are great, but you can't do much around the house, let alone knit or type, with them on. I've noticed mitts are very big this year. I had some left over fingering weight mossy green yarn from making my Dad a pair of mittens last year for Christmas. For his mittens I used three strands, for these mitts I used one strand. They weigh about an ounce. It's a great way to use up some small stash yarn.

I like the fact that they are long. Warm wrists and hands.


You can see the lacy detail here. The thumb is finished with a crocheted picot. I didn't do that on the hand, but may if I make them again.

My next project, knitting, is a Basket weave shawl like I made Jenn for Christmas. I fell in love with it while I was making it for Jenn, so I got a purple yarn for mine. Sewing wise, I'm going to alter my red wool blend kirtle because, YAY, I lost weight since I made it so it needs to be taken in. I'm thinking of making it lace up the front. Plus, I want to square the neckline.

Knitting Lace

2010-12-31T06:57:00.000-08:00

As promised, here are pictures of my finished cowl. I am very proud of how this came out.

Here is the whole thing

Detail of the Holly Berry edge. I finally figured out edging.

Kind of a blurry picture of the leaf detail.

Knitting Lace

2010-12-29T17:51:00.000-08:00

I am so excited! I figured it out. I figured out trim. I was thinking about it all wrong. I wasn't making the connection between knitting in the round (the body of the cowl) and knitting straight (the trim). Once I made that leap, the rest is easy.

The last stitch on 3 of the rows of the Holly Berry trim use one stitch on the bottom of the cowl. This is how you attach it to the bottom of the cowl.

I'm very proud of myself on this one. I have been mulling this one over and over for a few days. Pictures will follow once it is done.

Knitting Lace

2010-12-28T07:30:00.000-08:00

I finished my cowl. The leaf pattern came out really well, but the edging doesn't look anything like it should. I've had this problem with edging before. I still like it and will wear it. I've always been a fan of cowls because you can wear them so many different ways.

So it appears my next project is grabbing some scrap yarn and a pair of needles and practicing edging until I get it right. This is an important part of lace so I need to be proficient in it.

Edit to add: I have pulled out the bad edging and am going to fiddle until I have it right. Robin, I will post pictures as soon as I have the edging right.

Knitting Lace

2010-12-19T19:03:00.000-08:00

This has been an adventure in frustration and internet research. I have, quite literally, pulled this thing apart 5 times. First the rounds weren't lining up properly, then the stitch count was off. So, after vowing that I was not going to be defeated by this #$&* pattern, I went back to square one.

Here was the first problem. The pattern grid had these spaces labeled "no stitch". What the blazes did that mean? Well, after looking it up on the internet (thank you Gia for knittinghelp.com) I found out that it means just that, No Stitch. You ignore it, you do nothing, don't even count it. Problem one solved.

Second problem was that, well, I was reading the pattern grid like you read anything. Top to bottom and left to right. Nah uh. You are supposed to read them from the bottom right hand corner for the first row and then from right to left for the second row and so on. That explains why the pattern wasn't lining up.

Good, so now I know how to read the pattern and the counts are coming out right. HA! I told you it wouldn't defeat me.

This is what it looks like in the magazine


Here is what the first repeat looks like on my needle. There are 7 repeats of 20 rounds and then a border that is added to the bottom.

Stay tuned to see what happens next.

Knitting lace

2010-12-16T13:30:00.000-08:00

I just subscribed to the magazine Piecework. What a wonderful magazine. The first two issues had absolutely wonderful patterns. The first issue was about crafts in literature, like Miss Marple knitting and the March girls knitting socks and Jane Eyre netting purses. It had patterns for these types of crafts. In this issue they have a wonderful writeup about knitting and crocheting lace and a great abbreviated history of silk thread.

I decided, as all my Christmas presents are done (YAY), I would try knitting the Holly Berry Cowl. It is a very lacy piece done in lace or fingering weight yarn. I've never knit anything like this before. It's lacy and delicate and the pattern is done in diagram instead of being written out. This will be an amazing learning experience. I'm using a fingering weight soft baby blue yarn and size 8 16" circular needles. The pattern states size 4 24" needles, but when I made the gauge swatch with size 4 it came out 1/2 of the required size. I think I may be using a thinner yarn than they used (theirs was a wool lace weight). This is why I always make a gauge swatch, although I don't save them, I pull them out.

Christmas Present Making

2010-12-14T18:34:00.000-08:00

As promised, here are the rest of the pictures of my Christmas Present list. I'm only missing pictures of 2 hat and mitten sets.

These mittens are a delicious wool with a fabulous soft hand.

Suede yarn and a flower of acrylic stash yarn.

These are made with a soft fuzzy acrylic.

This picture came out too blue. The picture below is the true color.

I love this edge on the scarf. This is a wool/acrylic blend. I made matching mittens.

This color didn't photograph well. It is much more blue. They are pop top mittens.

The BR 2 means something to the person I made them for.

This is a large shawl with a basket weave pattern. It's made with a bulky weight yarn.

Just a standard 2 x 2 rib scarf in a very bulky yarn. I learned how to do a long tail and a reverse long tail cast on while doing this one.

Christmas Present Making

2010-12-11T17:35:00.000-08:00

So, I'm on my last gift. I'm making a pair of mittens for a very dear friend of mine in a yummy raspberry wool. It has this incredible soft hand. I love it.

Here are a few of the things I have made. I will post more pictures as I get this stuff wrapped. So far the count is 4 purses, 1 scarf, 1 scarf and mitten set, 1 shawl, 1 pair of convertible mittens, 5 pair mitten and hat sets, 1 pair two tone mittens and this last pair will be 15 total. Yikes...I've been a very busy girl :).

Hat and mitten set and a Messenger bag made out of suede yarn

Purple and white bag of acrylic yarn and pink suede bag

Ruffled hat and mitten set made with worsted weight cotton yarn

Christmas Present Making

2010-11-22T08:10:00.000-08:00

I have a total of 14 Christmas gifts to make each year. This is for various nieces, nephews, great nieces, great nephews, friends, etc. I usually start in August!

This year I have made a variety of hat and mitten sets (usually for the younger ones), 4 bags for the older girls, scarfs and a shawl. I can't post pictures yet because some of the friends that I make presents for may look in here.

Late last year I bought 6 skeins of suede yarn on sale at $1.00 a piece. I didn't know what I would do with it, but I knew I would find something. This is what I have used to make the bags for the girls. A little flower embellishment and they came out really cute.

I have the shawl to finish and a scarf to make and I'm all done. I may have an additional couple of pairs of mittens to make, but I have time. Oh, I forgot about the 2 Christmas Stockings I have to sew. Yikes.

So how are your Christmas projects coming?

Knitting

2010-11-10T05:34:00.000-08:00

So the second sock is done and I'm very happy with the set. Next time I will make the leg a little longer, about 1.5 to 2 inches and taper the top a bit. Ah live and learn.

Speaking of learning, most of my Christmas presents are handmade. It is just too expensive otherwise, I have a huge amount of nieces and nephews. Plus the few friends I make gifts for seem to appreciate them. In making a scarf for one of my friends I learned a great cast on technique when making ribbing. It is the long tail and reverse long tail method. It actually makes your first row for you.

Thanks to knittinghelp.com and knitdaily.com for the videos and emails that helped me learn them. I love learning new ways to make things look nice.

Knitting Socks - the second sock

2010-11-02T10:54:00.000-07:00

I found a much easier way to do short row heels. Thank you Gia for suggesting the website knitting help. It was invaluable. It also gave me a few pointers about how to do the Turkish toes.

As anyone who has ever had to pull out rows, it is always hard to pick the stitches back up again. When you have to do it for over 12 rounds and the yarn is superfine fingering weight and the needles are size 3...argh. It is my own fault for not paying attention to my count.

Onward and upward.

Knitting socks - It's a knee sock!

2010-10-11T12:36:00.000-07:00

It's finished. It is the first knee sock that I've had that comes up my leg. Next time I will make it about 2 inches longer as it doesn't quite reach my knee, but I'm still very happy with it. I need to get some 16 inch circular needles.

1 x 1 ribbing at the top

Knitting Socks - The Increase

2010-10-07T17:44:00.000-07:00

If I did the math right (knitting math, hmmm) I have the calf increasing to fit my larger calf. I have been increasing at the back almost every round. This should, un-stretched, be about 19" (yes, I have huge calves). This should fit with a little stretching.

This is why I'm trying to learn how to knit socks. I have very large calves so forget about finding any knee socks that actually fit in the store.

Knitting Socks - Turning the heel

2010-10-01T10:49:00.000-07:00

On these socks the heel is done by what is called "Short Row Heel". I followed the directions I have after several readings and an internet search for help (YouTube has great videos to help you). Wow, these directions are wicked fussy. There's YO front and back, increases and decreases, and parts missing from the directions. Yikes.

I persevered and was able to get the heel turned. I have to say, though, on the next sock in this pair I will try a technique I found while trying to figure out these instructions. On YouTube it has this tittle :
"Short Row Heel Demo - Lifestyle Toe Up Socks, No wraps!"
It seems much easier and still makes a heel.

Onward and Upward (literally :))

Knitting socks

2010-09-29T08:24:00.000-07:00

Not really doing a lot of sewing right now. I'm in Christmas present mode and while looking for a new hat brim pattern for one of my little ones, I stumbled across a pattern for knitting socks from the toe up using the Turkish or Eastern cast on method. I was very intrigued so I decided to try. Wow, I had to try it several times before I got it right, I'm not sure trying to learn it with super fine yarn and size 3 dpn was the smartest thing, but I finally got it. If you are curious there is a wonderful video on YouTube that explains it better than the directions that came with the pattern.

One of the reasons knitting socks intrigues me is because I have very heavy calves and can NEVER find knee socks that fit. So now I'm trying to make a pair that will. I knit a gauge swatch so I know how many stitches are in an inch. When I get to the part of the pattern where the leg is being formed I'm going to do some math to figure out how many to add.

If you are curious about how far I've gotten, here it is. This is four inches or so into the foot. It is a 2 x 2 rib pattern.

I'll keep you posted on how it's coming.

Slops

2010-09-04T15:44:00.000-07:00

Well, their done. I got inspired and over did it at the sewing machine, so now I'm in pain from my Fibromyalgia, but I finished them.

It went pretty much as planned, except for a very difficult lesson I learned in fitting pants. I put the pockets on and sewed up the outside seams then I sewed up the inside seam. I sewed the fake button placard. While trying to figure out how to put the placard on, I realized that the pants were too long in the front. That's when I had a revelation.

I had been cutting the front and back to the same measurements, that is why they never looked quite right. So I measured the front rise and the back rise and there is a difference of about eight inches. Yeah, big difference. This is when it dawns on me that to get a good fit, I need to measure the front and back different then put them together.

OK, problem is, I've already sewn up the pants. So, I fudge the waist band so that I have a shorter rise in the front than in the back. It's not perfect, but it looks better than previous attempts.

Now I can put a crease in the front of the pant and sew the placard in, making sure not to sew together the waist band. Thread the elastic cord through and hand stitch the placard over that. A handful of buttons sewn on and hemmed to about three or four inches above the ankle. Done.

Here is the few lessons I learned, and they are big ones:

1. Measure the front and back separate, using the different rises.
2. Work on the shaping of the pant. Because of the size of my butt I have to have a waist that will go over it if I'm using an elastic waist. If I'm using button or lacing I have to make sure it will go over my butt.

I'll post pics tomorrow. We have a dress rehearsal tomorrow and I'll have someone take a picture there.

Slops - Cotton Seersucker

2010-09-03T10:38:00.000-07:00

I found a length of thin stripped red/ivory seersucker on sale. It was enough to make a really baggy pair of Slops for my Pirate Persona (I am a black powder re-enactor). Here is my original plan.

As you can see, I really can't draw for anything. I had originally planned to use four pieces (two front and two back). However, the piece of fabric was plenty wide enough for me to use two pieces, one front and one back. Forgive me, but I also erased the actual measurements because, well, I really don't need my hip and waist measurements out there on the web.

The plan:

     1. Pin the pocket pieces on and stitch.
     2. Run up the outer leg seams and sew around the pockets.
     3. Sew up the fake button placard.
     4. Pin a fake seam in front and sew down with the placard in place.
     5. Sew up the inseam.
     6. Sew the waist band and hem legs.
     7. The detail work, sew buttons on the placard.

1/2 sleeve summer shirt - Finished

2010-08-20T10:54:00.000-07:00

Here it is. Yes I know, it turned out long sleeve. I went a little overboard on the ruffles. I still like it.

I got a really nice compliment on it from the local cashier at Walmart. She asked where she could get one like it. I told her I made it and it was my own design. She told me I was very talented. (HA fooled her).

Anyway, below is the sleeve detail. I really like them.

Lessons learned -

1. Measure sleeves a lot better. To be 1/2 sleeve I needed a much shorter ruffle and shorter sleeves.

2. I need more practice setting in sleeves.

3. I, maybe, should have ironed the fabric before I started cutting. (I hate ironing).

1/2 sleeve summer shirt - Day 4

2010-08-14T18:34:00.000-07:00

Well, the kids are gone :( so back to sewing.

I put the other sleeve on and sewed up the sides and under the sleeve. I have to hem it and it's done. I tried it on and it looks good, although I have to hand stitch a bit of the neckline in the back to make it lie right.

I really need more practice setting in sleeves. It looks OK, but I know what I had to jury-rig to get it to work right.

I will post pictures later.

1/2 sleeve summer shirt - Day three

2010-08-02T15:38:00.000-07:00

I got the ruffles pinned and sewn on. Wow, I'm going to have to re-think the ruffled petticoat I've been thinking about. Not hard just really time consuming.

Then came the setting on of the sleeve. Until now I've only done drop shoulder sleeves or a simple Tunic type sleeve. This time I wanted the shoulder seam to be at my natural shoulder. I had cut out the sleeve as a large rectangle. When I pinned the sleeve to the body I realized that to fit it in properly I was going to have to trim the top of the sleeve to an angle. So, I sewed the top of the sleeve to the body then pinned it to the sides. I sewed it up and trimmed the excess. It was a bit cumbersome but it looks right.

My Granddaughter is visiting this week, so the rest may have to wait.

Happy Gamma!

Hand Made Snoods, Belt pouchs and Wrist Bags for Sale

2010-08-01T18:08:00.000-07:00

I'm trying to earn extra cash by selling snoods, belt pouches and wrist bags. The wrist bags are in a shell pattern with a cord done by hand on a lucet. The snoods come in sizes small (10" diameter), medium (12" diameter), large (14" diameter) and XLarge (16" diameter). The belt pouches are 6.5 x 5 and fit a 1" belt (this can be customized as needed).

If you have ever wanted a snood but couldn't wear them because the standard is too small or large I can help. I sew a comb in the top to help them stay in place. Name your color, and I can do it. I also make beaded ones and can add a metallic thread.

Match your wrist bag and belt pouch to your snood. They are all made of cotton crochet thread.

Leave me a comment here with what you are interested in and how to get in touch with you.

1/2 Sleeve Summer Shirt - Day 2

2010-07-30T13:35:00.000-07:00

This is the fabric. The color didn't come through clearly, but the detail did. It's more of an old ivory color.

Today I sewed the binding tape on the neck line. I then attached the shoulder seams of the body. I hemmed the pieces I'm using to create the ruffle on the sleeves. Here's the neckline detail.

1/2 sleeve summer shirt

2010-07-29T15:17:00.000-07:00

It's been a while, but I'm back.   It's just so hot in my sewing area that I haven't had the desire to sit there. But, well, I want a new summer shirt so it's Sewing Time.

I found the great, thin cotton material with embroidery. It's a dark ivory color. I'm going to make it into a 1/2 sleeve pullover with a scoop neck. I'm going to learn how to set in sleeves with the shoulders where they belong, instead of a drop shoulder. I'm also going to put a ruffle on the sleeve. I'm going to finish the neckline with bias tape. At least that is the plan.

I cut out the two body pieces, the sleeve pieces and 2 pieces of material double the width of the sleeve.

Here is the plan after I iron the pieces.

1.   Sew the bias tape on the front and back neckline
2.   Sew the shoulders together
3.   Hem the ruffle pieces
4.   Attach the ruffle pieces to the bottom of the sleeve pieces
5.   Attach the sleeves to the body
6.   Sew up side seams and under the arm
7.   Hem the shirt

Stay tuned for how it goes.

2010-06-07T12:36:00.000-07:00

Pictures

Summer Shirt - Day 4

2010-06-07T12:34:00.000-07:00

Last night I hand stitched the neckline. I just rolled it over and whip stitched it. I also sewed on two of the buttons and took a couple of stitches at the top to keep the fold together.

Today I hemmed the sleeves and the bottom of the shirt. I used a zigzag stitch on the bottom for a different effect. I sewed the last buttons at the wrist and I'm done.

OK...here are the lessons I learned:

1) Make sure you have the right needle. When sewing knits you should use a ballpoint needle.

2) Tissue paper is your friend when sewing delicate or slippery fabrics.

3) Buttonholes. My machine has a one step buttonhole. If the material is slippery or delicate use a scrap piece of sturdy fabric when making the buttonhole.

4) Use the proper stitch. Knits need the stretch stitch or a zigzag stitch to work correctly.

5) A little hand sewing for details never hurt anyone.

Summer shirt - day 3

2010-06-04T15:05:00.000-07:00

Whew - it is hot in my kitchen where my sewing area is set up. I had the fan on and still kind of melted.

I got the sleeves on today. I had to rip part of the side seam out that I put in yesterday after I put one sleeve on and realized it wasn't right. I was looking for a slightly Rennie type sleeve that buttoned at the top, elbow and wrist and was wide at the bottom.

I cut two pieces per sleeve, hemmed the straight edge and pinned the two pieces to the body. I sewed them on and then ran the bottom up. I still need to hem the bottom of the sleeve. Then I put in the buttonholes.

OK...a word or two about buttonholes. I've never done them before so I read the directions in the machines manual. My machine has a one step buttonhole option. It says to use a thick thread when making buttonholes on slippery or knit fabric. Yeah, right. No way could I get those stupid things set right. After much swearing, I got a brain storm. I put a sturdier piece of scrap material under the knit and, voila, worked like a charm. Nice and easy with that fix.

I'm going to do a hand rolled whip stitch neckline. Then sew on the buttons and I'm done. I have a salvage edge at the bottom so hemming that is optional.

ARGH - Summer shirt - day 2

2010-06-03T15:09:00.000-07:00

I just have to keep telling myself "It's a learning experience". Here's what happened.

I changed the needle to a ballpoint needle, pinned the two pieces of fabric together and put a piece of tissue paper underneath to help with the feed. SNAP goes the needle because of a clogged bobbin. Took the bobbin case apart and cleaned and oiled it.

Then, after putting the new needle in, fiddling with the bobbin tension, fiddling with the stitch tension and swearing just a little bit I finally got a seam sewed. OK, so using the correct needle, stitch and tissue paper worked.

Next problem. The sleeve design is off. It won't hang the way I want it to with the current design so it's back to the drawing board.

I guess it is a good learning experience for when I start sewing with silk and satin to make merchant or noble Elizabethan garb.

Knit Fabric Summer shirt

2010-06-02T14:19:00.000-07:00

I bought a wonderful, soft knit fabric in a dark fuchsia. I want to make a V neck summer shirt with loose sleeves that button at the elbow and wrist and flair at the end. I have very wide fabric so I'm going to use the T Tunic model.

I folded the fabric and cut it at 29". This is the width I need. I cut out the neck. I cut out sleeves at about a 2:1 ratio with the larger end being the bottom. I'm going to split the sleeve in half, then hem each piece at the top. Then I'm going to pin the two pieces to each side of the body, run the side seams up and sew the underside of the sleeves. Two buttonholes will go on the sleeves top at the elbow and the wrist and a button will also go at the top of the sleeve for decoration only.

I started trying to sew this today and have run into all sorts of problems. My bobbin side is globing all up, the machine is eating my fabric (had to cut another sleeve) and everything is bunching up. So I clean and oil the bobbin casing and then I google. Come to find out you need a special ballpoint needle to sew knit fabric, who knew. So the whole project is on hold until I can get the proper needle.

Hey, this is a learning process.

Viking Dress in action

2010-06-02T14:08:00.000-07:00

Here I am in the Green Tunic with a plaid and with the Yellow Apron Dress. They are very comfortable and wear extremely well.

Viking Apron Dress - Day Two

2010-05-13T14:23:00.000-07:00

All done. This was an easy project. Basic cylinder of fabric with straps and a bit of trim. All I did to finish it was sew the trim on the bottom hem and fold over and sew the front of the straps. I decided to go traditional and not attach the front of the straps to the dress.

Here is the finished piece with the tunic and "bling". It will look better worn but you can see the effect. It will be about knee length once worn.

The only lesson I learned on this one was to angle the top to make a better fit.

Viking Apron Dress - Day 1

2010-05-12T13:23:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I cut the 2 body pieces and the two strap pieces.

Today I sewed up the side of the straps and turned them right side in. I pressed the straps flat with the seam in the middle. I sewed the side seams of the body and tried the dress on. As I thought, I was going to have to take the top in a bit so it wouldn't gap at the sides.

I pinned the sides and took the dress off. I sewed up the sides, pinned the top hem, pinning the straps to the back. I sewed the top hem and straps in place, using two rows of stitches.

Viking Apron Dress - The Plan

2010-05-11T08:57:00.000-07:00

An Apron Dress is basically a tube of fabric that goes around the body from about the arm pit to a few inches below the knee. It is held up by two straps that are attached in the back and held closed in the front by brooches. I'm modifying this a bit by having the straps attached both front and back.

Here is the plan for the Apron Dress.

I'm going to cut two pieces for the body. The top will measure 1/2 my bust measurement plus a few inches for wiggle room and seam allowances. The bottom will be this measurement plus 10 inches. The length will be the the distance from my arm pit to a little below my knee plus a few inches for hemming the top and bottom.

Next I'll cut two strips of fabric 41/2 inches wide and 22 inches long. The length is the distance from the middle of where the top back of the dress will be to over my shoulder. I just find that attaching straps in the middle of the back keeps them from slipping off the shoulder.

Sew the two halves of the body together.
Pin the top hem then place the straps where they belong and pin them in place.
Sew the top hem down and the straps in place. I'm going to use two rows of stitches at the top.
Pin the trim on the bottom and pin up the hem.
Sew the trim in place and hem at the same time. Again there will be two rows of stitches here, the top of the trim and the bottom which will also act as the hemming.

This is the fabric and trim. The fabric is a cotton broadcloth so it will have to be ironed before I sew it together. I'm using the same trim I used on the green kirtle. One, because I really love this pattern and two, because they will be worn together.

Green Kirtle - Day 5

2010-05-10T14:03:00.000-07:00

I'm done. I sewed the trim on the bottom hem, using it to add a bit of length and even out the hemline a bit. I really like the way it came out. It looks much more professional and fits better.

Things I learned:

1) It pays to measure twice and cut only when certain of the measurements. The neckline and sleeves came out much better this time because of it.

2) It helps me to write out my plan ahead of time. I find a few bugs that way. Also, if you have a plan that has worked for you before and you need to alter it a bit, it is much easier to do this if you have a written plan.

3) Pinning is your friend. It takes a little longer but it really helps if you are uncertain about how a piece goes on.

Next is the Apron dress. I have a lovely piece of yellow broadcloth (I love the green and yellow combo, this is the third set I will have in these colors) that is going to be a Viking style apron dress. Stay tuned.

Green Kirtle - Day 4

2010-05-08T12:09:00.000-07:00

Almost done. I put the gores in and sewed up the sides/under sleeves.

The gores were a bit tricky. I had to re-cut them because I cut them too long. I wanted them to hit at the waist and at the original length they hit under the arm. Once they were re-cut I started pinning. I pinned one side of the gore to the side, then went up the rest of the side and under the arm. I then pinned the other side of the gore to the other side of the body. Getting the top smooth and even was a bit tricky, but I took my time and got it.

Now all that is needed is trimming out the bottom. As the tunic hits right at the top of my feet I'll just trim the bottom instead of hemming it.

Here are some pictures. They aren't great, they were taken in my full length mirror.

I'll get a better picture once I've finished.

Green Kirtle - Day 3

2010-05-07T16:54:00.000-07:00

Today I trimmed the sleeves, hemming them at the same time, and attached them to the body. It doesn't sound like much progress but I was doing this while my granola bars were baking.

One of the problems I'm finding is that my work table is so low that my back hurts when I have to pin pieces together. I need to see if we have a higher table.

Tomorrow I'm going to attach the gores and sew up the side seams. Then will be trimming and hemming the bottom. I'm going to pin the trim on at the same time I pin up the hem. That way I only have to go around the bottom twice (for the top and bottom of the trim) instead of an additional time to hem it up.

Green Kirtle - Day 2

2010-05-05T14:10:00.000-07:00

Here is the fabric and trim I'm using. The background of the trim is more beige than white, but I liked the two together.

Today's project is to iron the cut pattern pieces. Because it's linen (cotton and cotton blends tend to do this too) I like to iron them because the ends tend to turn under. It makes it impossible to line them up properly when sewing them together (I learned this with the first kirtle).

After this was done, I trimmed the neckline and sewed the shoulder seams together. By trimming the neckline first I get that nice crisp edge at the shoulders.

I'm also getting better at corners.

Next is trim the wrists of the sleeves then attach the sleeves to the body. After that I have to put the gores on and sew up the sides and underside of the sleeves. Lastly hem and trim the hemline.

Green Kirtle - A better fitting

2010-05-04T17:55:00.000-07:00

I'm revisiting my kirtle pattern. I'm trying to make a better fit. I found a great piece of green linen at Birka this year that I'm making into a light weight kirtle with a squared neck and gores at the hip to hem. As the fabric is 57 inches wide, I'm cutting out two pieces for the body. I'm taking 1/2 my bust measurement plus a few inches for wiggle room and seam allowances. I cut a square neckline in the front piece that is 9 inches down and 8 inches across.

I cut two sleeves in a large triangle with the widest part being my upper arm measurement plus 3 inches and the smaller measurement is the circumference of my fist. The gores are 43 inches long and 15 inches at the widest part and 5 inches very close to the top. This will give me the room for my hips and the fullness at the hem.

I'm going to trim the wrist, neck and hem with a white/green trim. This should give me a much better fit than the previous one.

Pictures of skirt

2010-04-29T17:56:00.000-07:00

Day 5 - Finished

2010-04-29T10:22:00.000-07:00

I promise I will post pictures and a pattern piece when I can.

Today I hemmed the skirt and I'M DONE. Can I tell you, I really hate hemming. It is the only thing I don't like about sewing. And, with a gored skirt the hem is 3 times the yardage as the waist.

It's unfortunate that I just can't sew the skirt up in the 4 or 5 hours that it would take. But, because of the Fibro I have to take 4 or 5 days, but at least I can get it done.

Here is what I learned:

1. Make sure you have everything in the house before you start the project so you don't have to go out to the store.

2. When cutting out the gores, round the edges of the bottom slightly so you don't have corners. This will make hemming easier.

3. The more colors you have in a skirt the more frequently you have to change thread. A very minor annoyance, but something to think about when you are planning a project if you are under a time crunch.

4. Make sure you get the good thread. It may be a little more money but it saves frustration because it doesn't break or leave as much lint.

5. If you doubt how a piece goes on, pin it then check it. I wasn't certain how the waistband needed to go on, so I pinned it on first.

6. Take the time to press the seams down and trim the threads. It makes hemming and sewing the waistband on easier and it looks more professional.

7. Clean your machine thoroughly after you finish a project and oil as needed. You pick up a lot more lint than you think.

Day 4

2010-04-28T07:28:00.000-07:00

The waistband is now sewn on. I was successful lining up one seam on the black/red edge. The other, where the opening is to feed the elastic through, is now exactly lined up. This can be fixed once the elastic is fed through and I hand sew the opening closed.

The reason I didn't finish the waistband today is because I can't find the wider elastic I know I have. So, off to the craft store (what a hardship giggle) to replace it.

Diary of an Intrepid Seamstress

Christmas Presents Post #3

More Christmas Present Posts

...And Christmas presents continue

Cat Scratcher

Adventures in Canning

Elizabethan Corset

Elizabethan Corset - Boning Channels

Elizabethan Corset - Sewing and boning

Elizabethian Corset.

Spiced Orange Gored skirt - Done

Spice Orange Gored skirt - Ready to sew

Shirt

Elizabethan Corset - On hold

Elizabethan Corset - The pattern

Project List - Bloomers/PJ Pants

Project list - Work basket gusset

Project List - Basket liner

Project List - Corded Petticoat - Finished

Project List - Corded Petticoat

Project list - Crinoline

Nalebinding

Nalebinding

Project list update.

Project list.

The Kate Holly Clark Chemise

11th Century Bliaunt - Green FINISHED

11th Century Bliaunt - Green - Back in business

A Requiem to my sewing machine

Beaded Snood - Finished

11th century Bliaunt - At an impass

11th Century Bliaunt - Green - Day 1

11th Century Bliaunt - The Green one

Beaded snood - Day 2

Beaded snood

11th Century Bliaunt - Pictures of me in it

11th Century Bliaunt - FINISHED

11th Century Bliaunt - Day 3

11th century Bliaunt - Day 2

...and so it begins - 11th Century Bliaunt

Bodice

Bodice - Day 6

Bodice - day 5

Bodice - day 4

Bodice - Day three

Bodice - Day 2

Bodice for a friend - Day 1

Pants for a friend

Building Stock and re-arranging my sewing area

Historical Socks

Black Tatted Choker with Red Beads - Finished

Tatted Choker with beading

Tatting Shuttles - Product Review

Pirate Socks - Part 3 - Finished

Pirate Socks - part 2

Pirate socks

Baby Sweater

Baby sweater and variegated yarn

Tatting Lace

Tatting Lace

Knitting Shawl

Knitting Mitts

Knitting Lace

Knitting Lace

Knitting Lace

Knitting Lace

Knitting lace

Christmas Present Making

Christmas Present Making

Christmas Present Making

Knitting

Knitting Socks - the second sock

Knitting socks - It's a knee sock!

Knitting Socks - The Increase

Knitting Socks - Turning the heel

Knitting socks

Slops

Slops - Cotton Seersucker

1/2 sleeve summer shirt - Finished

1/2 sleeve summer shirt - Day 4